Reddit bouldering training plan. g. Hey friends, My names Kyle. My typical volume is 7-8 hours of bouldering over 3 sessions a week. 1-2 sessions a week should be on training board (e. moonboard, tension, kilter, spray wall) These boards are essentially the climbing equivalent of the deadlift, meaning the most bang for your buck. I'm back to climbing about 6b which is the best I've ever climbed. The catalyst plan will focus much more on your climbing, and will recommend lots of technique drills, which will lead to really rapid improvement especially if you haven't worked much on them before. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. MembersOnline • crimpy_thang ADMIN MOD Hello fellow climbers! I've been climbing for about 9 months now and only recently I've started following a more structured training plan. I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions to help me climb harder. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… This is the rough plan I have written up for my plan to go from averaging 6b bouldering, aiming for 7a. Context: I've been climbing for three years (mostly bouldering in the first two years, mostly sport in the last) and in the past two, I've had too many episodes of PIP synovitis and one episode of A2 pulley tweak. Here are some of the best workouts for climbers and boulderers. From past athletic experiences I do really well with training plans and templates. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Was originally planning to periodise my training in a 3 weeks on 1 week off cycle, and do a couple of those, so 8 weeks in total. Customised climbing training plans written by expert coaches and focused on your goals. Tuesday- Route climbing+ antagonist+ stretching & mobility. Hi guys, basically been bouldering coming up to a year now and want to make my training a bit more climbing specific. IMO to come up with an effective training plan (or to get advice on one), you need to define the following first: What is my goal? What are my weaknesses preventing me from getting there? What instruments of training do I have at my disposal? (bouldering/sports gym access, hangboard at home, etc. I want to start adding in drills and conditioning exercises so I can continue improving. I feel I could do with some guidance regarding how to structure my sessions, specifically with regards to strength training. Sep 8, 2021 · Read More: 3 Common Power-Endurance Mistakes Limit Bouldering on the MoonBoard Picking the problem Pick two to three problems that are right at your limit, powerful, and contain moves that initially feel difficult but feasible—a good limit problem should take you two or three days. I’d drop it down to two weight training days (running either full body or an upper/lower split) and maybe a light cardio day. I’m a pretty new climber, but I want to target and train my weakness during my climbing sessions to improve as much as possible, so I’ve designed myself a 90% on the wall training plan, and I’d love some feedback- drills that might be a good addition, programming issues, whatever! My plan is to do 6 weeks of this, and then re-evaluate. At this point in climbing with a little effort you can create your own plan Reddit's rock climbing training community. Training Plan for Improving at Bouldering that doesn't take 25 eons to work I got into climbing around two years ago. Im trying to consistently train and want to build a training plan for crimps and pull-ups. Does anyone have any drills/exercises, on or off the wall, they they believed really helped with power generation and feeling stronger on the wall? Apr 5, 2024 · If you’ve been bouldering regularly & are looking to take your bouldering to the next level, this guide to bouldering training is for you. Bouldering is often a an anaerobic activity, training endurance will help minimally compared to taking proper rest and getting ur beta and technique down. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? TL;DR: Do any of you train climbing, long distance running, and weightlifting simultaneously? I have found many resources for training both distance running and weightlifting, but not many for training both with climbing. Those who do combine the sports, how do you segment your training throughout the week? Mar 26, 2025 · Fingers of steel are the foundation of harder climbing. Jun 23, 2024 · By incorporating a variety of bouldering exercises that target strength, technique, flexibility, and mobility, you can create a well-rounded training plan that will help you improve your climbing skills and reach your bouldering goals. I don’t need a one on one coach, but I found having a marathon template was helpful when I decided to run a Are there any recommended training routines (special workouts and things I can do at home)? "Learning by doing", i. Training Plan (Per week): Day 1: Warm-up: Stretches, mobility exercises (shoulder and hips), light climbing for a total of 15 mins Hangboarding: 5 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off, with 4 different grip positions If climbing progression is your main goal, always prioritise climbing over any weight lifting. 3 climbing days >>>>>> 2 climbing days + 1 gym day. ) How much time can I dedicate to training? I'm currently preparing for a 1 week outdoor climbing A Guide to Periodization for Climbing (avoiding plataeus and overtraining) Periodization - the application of planned phase changes and cycles in training to drive physical and metabolic change while reducing the likelyhood of overtraining. Goals: This spring I have some concrete outdoor sport climbing goals I'd like to accomplish and so want to get fit for sport climbing. just bouldering is probably the best practice, but since I only boulder maximum once a week, I'd like to support my body with a couple of training routines I can do at home, maybe at gym too. I'm not looking for rapid results or anything. The gym you sign up for will grade their problems and you'll settle into a range where you know which grade you can do easily and which is more of a challenge or too difficult to try. There are definitely ways to stay in very strong climbing shape even w/o the normal access. At most it should be 5-10% of your total weekly training time, to en down after and de prioritised compared to high quality climbing specific movement on steep training boards or outdoor projects. As long as you have a solid base of climbing experience (climbers just starting out will find maximum benefit from just climbing), finger strength training is an excellent addition to a climber’s training regimen. Tendons take a lot longer to develop than muscles and it's easy to overdo it and hurt yourself. (I. For progressing in climbing / bouldering hard its not the smartest way doing so. I've found that focussing on technique while climbing and training strength with dedicated, trackable exercises is more successful in training periods. 5h and adjust each session accordingly (as an example) Overall, this training plan seems like way too much volume. It was a tough week but the bouldering helped me to break the habit of smoking. This complete eight-phase training series will coach you through specific workouts based on periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak climbing performance on the rock and in the gym. If you climb 3x week 3h, a good coach would probably step in; and tell you to lower volume 3x 1. I plan on regularly campusing boulders, as well as doing on + off wall lock off training, but am nervous I am pigeonholing myself. An at home training program without climbing specific facilities (walls, hangboard, campus board, or at least a bar) or weights that will translate directly to climbing harder grades isn't possible. My plan is as follows: 1. Personally I’m an ultra runner, alpine soloist and do a lot of bouldering. 13 for Fall 2024). Training can be hard to motivate yourself to do. com I'm following the beginner routine in Training for Bouldering 102: https://boulderbushido. 5-2 hours on Wednesday, training climbing as per Louis Parkinsons recommendations. At the moment, bouldering indoor can flash most problems V4s or lower. Saturday en Sunday rest days. Apr 10, 2024 · Free climbing training programs available for download as a supplement to the book Training For Climbing by Eric Horst. I spent years over engineering training plans for sub V10 bouldering /5. If your priority is doing 5/3/1 or being gym strong the program may be valid. 1. Fancy definitions aside periodization is a way to set up your training to maximize your gains and avoid plateaus and overuse injuries. Jun 27, 2022 · Climbing requires good cardio, strength, and endurance. Plans like "Intermediate Marathon - 4hr pace" are common, and they all have Reddit's rock climbing training community. I especially love Moonboard climbing and am currently at around 10 V3 benchmarks. As a bouldering newbie who is brand spankin' new to the sport (zero climbing experience, still learning the climbing lingo, and learning how to do V0s), I was looking for some kind of training plan, conditioning plan, or beginner friendly workouts to help improve my climbing. If you're just looking to get fit and want to do the gym day anyway, I'd focus on climbing antagonist like chest and tricep + also focus on leg power. Prior to this, my sessions just consisted of climbing whatever seemed interesting, after some light stretches as warmup. You'll work finger strength, power, body tension, hip mobility, etc. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or aspiring athlete, these structured programs will help you achieve your goals. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). Deadlifts / General barebell training is good for some group of climbers or for specific goals but not as a working horse for climbing harder. I've been climbing for 4 years now and use to just go into the gym to project and saw consistent results. Thursday- Bouldering/ projecting/board climbing+ max hang+ deadlifts+ core. Serious, structured training is for more advanced climbers. Climbing Experience: I've been climbing regularly for 2 years now I've been bouldering, nearly all indoors, for about two years now, with a couple of long breaks in between due to injuries/covid shutdowns. I was planning on following this plan I've made for my self for the next two months before starting off the next school year with doing a very organized training plan by spending 8 weeks periodizing different elements. I can find training plans for running, for example, for everything from a 5k to an ultramarathon, for every running level, with different goals for each. I would recommend a plan that looks a bit more like this. com We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I'm just about to start taking my climbing (bouldering in particular) seriously. I’ve worked full time as a sports performance coach for endurance and mountain athletes for the last 17 years. Max finger strength is your ability to grab a hold for five to 10 seconds. Looking to enhance your bouldering strength and technique? Explore tailored training plans designed to improve your climbing endurance, power, and flexibility. Not necessarily because he's the best, his ethos just seems to make sense to me. Good content. e. 5-2 hours on Monday, just climbing to the best of my ability. 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. Are you training to have the ability to climb for that many hours straight or for a 20 to 40s boulder problem? Effective training works the energy zone that you'll ultimately perform at. Wednesday- rest. the At home training plan for bouldering strength from Louis Parkinson (I made a video about that on my YT channel if you are interested), Lattice Training, Andrew McFarlane or Shauna Coxsey. Friday- pull ups+ repeaters, core Background: serious about training this off season in order to meet some of my sport climbing goals (I’m eyeing my first 5. The Moon Climbing app features a Benchmark filter that presents the standards for the grades; benchmarks are a Reddit's rock climbing training community. Monday- Bouldering+ pull ups+ core. And, frankly, training for climbing can be and often is (particularly for people at moderate grades like yourself) incredibly simplistic and easy-- the hard part is sticking to a plan, being disciplined, and being smart day after day, month after month, year after year for the long haul. wixsite. 167K subscribers in the climbharder community. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CRITIQUE!! Whether it be the order I do things (e. This was my first taste of structured training and properly working on my weakness. I got no injuries (except for a flapper on Reddit's rock climbing training community. Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. I’ve consulted with a friend/local climbing coach and he’s sketched out a trial three week training plan and then will change it up based on feedback. Although this is only for strength building phase, but periodisation is a bit too advanced and something to discuss with r/climbharder In your case probably, as if you cant manage tactical aspect of climbing to prevent injuries coach could step in and manage training plan for you. redditmedia. It has helped me a lot with finger rehab and injury recovery, as well as prevention. Look up a training plan from the Rock Warrior Prodigy training program or Lattice. What are some fun bouldering workouts you all like to do that keep things interesting? I know the classics…4x4, limit, flash practice,etc. Quit early if you experience any fatigue or a decline in performance. Just looking for safe and reliable ways to train the fingers. 13 sport and it almost always lead to injury or minimal gains, technique 8s normally the crux at this climbing level. fingerboard after a session rather than before), or the volume I am doing things. You don’t need a climbing gym, as all exercise variations can be done with regular free weights and your body weight. Climbing is highly skill based and incredibly sport specific in terms of muscle requirements. The Lattice lite plan will give you much more help with structuring your training, and you'll probably end up much stronger after it. Hey guys:) I have been climbing for the past few months (3-4 months to be exact, 3-4 times a week), usually v3s-v4s and sometimes v5s. Then I ran into the problem and realized I have no idea what I'm doing. If you ignored the pre-written plans and calendars in the Rock Climber's Training Manual, I think that's a really great book on training and climbing harder written by people who've walked the walk. I followed a 6 week training program and improved my route climbing and bouldering - here’s my results and review At Christmas I received a copy of Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing. There were around 30 boulders. For boulderers, trad, and sport climbers at a range of abilities. The autumn bouldering season begins soon, and I'm not sure how to best structure my next cycle of training. Jan 23, 2024 · Welcome to Climbing’s yearlong training plan. . Assuming your primary goal is to improve climbing, I’d try schedule climbing days after rest days or easy cardio sessions. See full list on 99boulders. light weight many repetitions etc) I have trained Calisthenics in the past also to note so pull up variations and dips etc are Friday: went climbing alone -weight training focused on pullups some cardio boulder session where I went through the gym and climbed all the easy routes 2/3/4. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I was wondering if anyone knows a good training program? One does improves technice and strength (both at home and "on the wall" - traverse etc). This is meant for newcomers/relative beginners to bouldering and will outline what you should focus on, the frequency, and intensity depending on your personal needs. Hardcore plateaud at V3. com/bushidotraining/training-book There's a wealth of info in there, including why to do things, not just how, and also an intermediate and advanced routine. If paying for a program helps you stay the course, great. I recommend climbing at least a year or two before you start doing any serious campusing or fingerboarding. Although lattice is a great source for information their training plans are overpriced. I did the 12 week boulder plan. I would say, just climb, stretch, and do some moderate cross training like pushups and stuff to balance out. Lifting for climbing is not the answer. I specialize in programming strength plans for ultra runners, alpine climbers and indoor climbers. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Reddit's rock climbing training community. It all depends on your climbing level and climbing age but consulting a local coach or strength coach might be best. These sessions are climbing in the v1-5_sessions range with some longer projecting sprinkled in. 12 week cycle with lattice training I just completed my first cycle of training with lattice. I do climbing but i want to get into bodybuilding to weigh up for the pull strength i get from climbing. A lot of people share their lattice programs online and you could easily adapt theirs to your goals for free too. How do I structure my training plan while climbing 3 times week? So after around four years of climbing, two of which were more serious than the other, I've come to the conclusion that I want to create a workout plan (that also includes climbing, of course). Due to scheduling, I can only spend at most 2 climbing days per week. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I usually mix 2 bouldering sessions a week with gym workouts in between, but wanting to know best sort of workouts that will compliment climbing. MembersOnline • BaeylnBrown777 ADMIN MOD Start climbing, you'll figure out very quickly what your skill level is. Is this a climbing thing or a fitness thing? If climbing, Definitely prioritise climbing more over training. I used chatgpt to create a training program for me: Day 1 climbing Day 2 Legs Day 3 rest Day 4 climbing Day 5 push Day 6 rest Day 7 climbing I'm coming to climbing from a running and triathlon background, and in those sports there are hundreds, maybe thousands, of different training plans available. but what are some others that keep you engaged? What about climbing specific/ on the wall exercises? I’ll do pinned hands/feet and some ab work on a training board but are there others you like? For Reddit's rock climbing training community. I spend countless hours scouring forums and sites for information on how to improve that wouldn't cost me my left nut. Jun 4, 2024 · Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how climbers in the V3-V9 range should train for bouldering. Unlock your peak climbing potential with our eight-week training plan, crafted for intermediate to advanced climbers aiming for top performance on projects or trips. Start watching some of the respectable content creators on training, and pickup Horst's book on training and his online free training plans (sounds like you want to pick his bouldering track) Right now my temptation is to add a general bodyweight strength program to improve my overall strength/fitness, but I’ve hesitated in the past because I don’t want to take away from climbing-specific training or gains. You are almost always better off figuring out what your physical I’ve been climbing for about a year, and depending on the gym my max grade (project) is usually a V5/V6. Seeking for advise to maximize my climbing days. So my areas of focus are - outdoor bouldering (top priority), board climbing (second priority and replaces outdoor bouldering when I can’t get outside), weight training (third priority, this is mainly focused on general strength and areas of weakness), finger training (fourth priority, but jumps to second priority in the off-season, max hangs Reddit's rock climbing training community. My goal is to climb V6 and 7a consistently. In this post I will Looking for some constructive criticism on my training plan for pushing my bouldering and sport climbing grades. Hello r/climbharder,I'm looking to level up my climbing with my first structured training plan. Day 1: "Limit" bouldering w/ post-workout max-hangs + core Day 2: Volume bouldering (focusing a little on routes that aren't my style) Day 3: "Limit" bouldering w/ post-workout max-hangs + core Questions: In addition to training, should I aim to cut weight? At this point in time, is a little bit of fat holding me back from sending harder? Reddit's rock climbing training community. But still good post, thanks. The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. I've noticed newer climbers tend to have trouble figuring out how to train besides "just climbing more", so I've created this guide of sorts to hopefully help a few people. Some background information about myself: Personal Details: I'm a 26-year-old male, 187 cm tall, and weigh 80 kg. My stats Climbing for 2 years (~6month gap due to COVID) Male, 65kg, 173cm (5ft 7”), Hardest grade climbed in bouldering - 6c+/v5 Finger training Hello. Im decently strong on crimps but am pretty terrible with pull ups and explosive movement. As sennzz pointed out already, a lot of coaches/coaching platforms propose to use half crimp e. azzvok wmoeiamf ddlvm qabva qbl rpeqm sfstbvl lehy cihqzf fjibw