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How to use atc belay device. The most versatile belay/rappel .

  • How to use atc belay device. How to pass a belay certification? The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the belayer ‘catch’ the climber by creating more friction on the rope or locking it in place with a braking device. 5 mm range. The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. I tend to agree. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. ” (This was a joke on the part of Black Diamond, given that the ATC’s primary use is to belay or “control” a climber high in the air on a rope, or allow a climber to control their descent. Videos you watch may be added to the TV's watch history and influence TV recommendations. Dec 22, 2023 · Before early climbers began using purpose-built belay devices, they learned to use the Munter hitch to give belays, catch falls, rappel, and lower climbers. Sep 30, 2016 · During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top This user manual provides instructions and warnings for using the Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device. Learn to set up and use the ATC Belay/Rappel Device from Xinda. I am hoping to get a Christmas present for my boyfriend - he needs an ATC belay device? When I google it, I just see the simple belay device where the belayer holds on to the rope and use tension to keep the climber in place. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. A third device might be picked up years later as an upgrade This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. I don’t care what my belayer is using so long as they are going to catch me if I fall. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top The angle you hold the rope at directly corresponds to how much friction is caused by the device (hence why people belay double rope when there will be large angles between the protection). Nov 22, 2021 · How does an ATC belay device work? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Once you learn to belay and climb a little you’ll feel much safer and more confident in what you’re doing. In this article, we'll break down the different types of belay devices and explain how to choose the best belay device for your climbing style and preferences. The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. 3 days ago · The figure 8 belay device, also known as the figure 8 descender and figure 8 rappel device, is a metal piece shaped as 8 with one small end and one small end. When belaying, you can tie-off your belay device. We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. How to use and safely belay using an Air Traffic Controller (ATC). This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. Part of the series: Rock Climbing. Today, we understand the Munter hitch was popularized and named after Swiss mountain guide Werner Munter. Is there any benefit to using a figure 8 as opposed to tubular belay devices or a locking assist belay device? Thanks Belay Device Advice (haha) Hi, I don't know much about climbing so I apologize. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. What Is an Assisted Locking Belay Device An assisted locking belay device is a tool that climbers use to keep climbers safe and control the speed of the rope going through the device. High-quality accessories for the Rock Climbing Enthusiast. My favorite belay device I've ever used was an old sticht plate. It teaches that one particular hand (usually a person's strong hand) will stay on the brake rope at all times. What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. Some popular alternatives include the GriGri Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. The other day, I was top rope climbing indoors and there was so much tension while my partner and I were lowering each other that he flipped his ATC the other way ("teeth up") to make the lowering process smoother. . Dec 11, 2016 · PLUS is the most error-free top rope belaying technique. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Is this safe? Just having trouble finding anything online about it. Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. 7 to 10. Universal technique for correct use of a belay device. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. Jan 24, 2022 · While using an ATC belay device, I was taught "teeth down" when I first got into climbing. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. Types of belay devices: Your belay Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. ) The Nov 7, 2020 · Learn to set up and use the ATC Belay/Rappel Device from Xinda. The earliest versions were used in the 60’s, though the inventor is unknown. 7 mm to 11 mm. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Dec 11, 2016 · A basic top roping skill. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. Here, the climber depends on his partner to handle the rope, hindering too much tension or slack through good belay techniques. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. What Is An ATC? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. It is used in climbing, caving, rappelling, and other activities where the rope may be under heavy tension. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant an Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows The Figure 8, also known as an 8 ring, is one of the simplest rappel devices, and has been around for a long time. This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. The ATC-Pilot is a single-rope, geometry-assisted belay device with enhanced braking, designed specifically for belaying during climbing and mountaineering. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. As with anything, they each have their advantages and disadvantages, and a lot of the distinction between them is going to come down to personal Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. While ATCs are widely used in climbing, there are also alternative belay devices available. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Jan 24, 2024 · Atc Belay Device How To Use? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. To use the ATC belay device, or any belay device, you'll want to be s Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. This is often the first step in an emergency situation or . Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. Examples of these include tubular devices such as the Black Diamond ATC, or the Petzl Reverso. Here’s a review from an REI expert. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Apr 22, 2020 · How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 32K subscribers Subscribed The ATC, also known as a ‘tuber’ is probably the most common belay device that people use for climbing. ” Every tube-like belay device produced after the ATC by other brands was also called an ATC, just like every tissue paper is called Kleenex by most people. According to my research, the best rappelling devices for canyoneering include: SQWUREL 2 Canyonwerks CRITR 2 Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Belay/Rappel Device Figure 8/ATC Those are five strong candidates that will get you down any rappel that you need. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. In my experience, its never been to difficult to release under load either. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Nov 17, 2023 · The ATC is a line of tubular belay devices produced by Black Diamond. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. g. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Jul 15, 2010 · When I belay I usually use a grigri but I also have an ATC. A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Because most climbers use the ATC as a belay device and almost everyone has one, it frequently ends up being used as a rappel device when rappelling Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. If playback doesn't begin shortly, try restarting your device. Here are our in-depth reviews. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. The original Black Diamond “ATC” shares its name with an acronym that more commonly stands for “Air Traffic Controller. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Learn about its features, capabilities, and limitations. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. (And the little pics Traditional belay devices use friction to assist you in managing the weight of your climber when you need to catch a fall. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. ATC Setup for a Rappel With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. Dec 5, 2024 · We compare the most popular choices in The Best Climbing Belay Device Review, and offer our thoughts on the suitability of each device for different types of belaying. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Compared to an ATC, assisted locking belay devices also prevent accidental falls if the belayer isn’t paying attention when a climber falls by locking the rope into place and preventing it from moving through Sep 18, 2023 · Safety considerations when using an ATC include regular inspections to ensure the device is in proper working condition, correct handling and storage to prevent wear and tear, and understanding the limitations and proper usage of the specific ATC being used. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Feb 22, 2020 · This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. Aug 30, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. However, there are two exceptions to mention. Aug 21, 2021 · What does ATC stand for belay device? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC Jul 8, 2021 · ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. It is a useful skill to know, but is not intended for long-term use. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. But how do you rappel with an ATC? The ATC-Guide Climbing Belay Rappel Device by Black Diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest heights. Today, we talk more about how to belay, and here’s everything you need to know about it. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. It costs very little and last a long time. So learn to use a basic tube-style device, and you’ll be able to adapt to any other type or brand within a few minutes of practice. However, its roots actually date back further than Werner, with Italian climbers, where it was known as the nodo mezzo barcaiolo How to tie-off a belay device. Mar 10, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. Weighing in at 2. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. Feb 12, 2024 · A vast majority of belay devices double as rappel devices – the terms belaying device and rappel device are often used interchangeably - but you need to know how to properly use them in order to rappel safely. Simple device = simple mechanics. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. While there have been a few tweaks and improvements over the past 30 years since its development, the basic idea has remained unchanged. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. Understand and follow your rope’s intended use. The most versatile belay/rappel Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Jan 3, 2024 · GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is an ATC? The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. It is an essential device for climbing safety. ATC. Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. When using two-strand rope each strand is pulled through its own longitudinal opening in the body belay device. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. Jul 12, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. It can also cause slight abrasion to the rope's sheath, especially if the leader falls. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. Nov 6, 2022 · One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. This minimizes the risk of Uses: - Belaying without a belay device - Abseiling without a belay device - Creating a releasable knot when escaping the belay The munter hitch tends to 'kink' the rope when used for abseiling or belaying. A toothless tube option is available, too, as the classic Black Diamond ATC. If they are lowing too fast, go futher into a lock off position, if they're lowering too slow, go furthere away from a lock off position. Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. I hope this post isn't too redundant. How to Use the ATC Belay Device While Rock Climbing. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. 5 days ago · The ATC belay device is a mechanical device that is used to control a rope’s tension. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more Mar 16, 2022 · But nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. However, I am looking to get May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Learn how here. The figure 8 rappel device is the tool to keep you safe and in control of the speed while you are rappelling. Take a belay class from a climbing instructor anywhere in the world. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. That is the standard system, needing two people, specialist climbing equipment and the knowledge of how to use it. hnlnk giwvix jjcz koui krmasrg ksha fhvdvq syptjh ajjhc ukzs